March 31 - Easter

Beautiful




Before I left the trail on March 22nd, I was trying to figure the miles I could do in order to reach Newfound Gap Rd. before Easter Sunday. If I could do those miles, then my husband would meet me and we'd drive to Gatlinburg to attend Easter Sunday Mass at St. Mary's Catholic Church.

Instead he met me at Hwy. 143 Stecoah Gap, NC about a week earlier and brought me home to rehab my ankle and foot.  I have attended daily mass and was home to partake in Holy Week Services ... what blessings. Certainly not what I had planned but I'm thinking this may have been God's plan for me.  Since my return home the weather for thru-hikers has been horrible.  Many sought refuge in motels/hostels or wherever and waited; some braved the elements and made it through but it was very difficult. Newfound Gap Rd. was closed due to all the snow.  Winter storm "Virgil" dumped a bunch of that snow.  It has been cold. I have been very comfortable at home and to say I've enjoyed those comforts is kind of an understatement.  I have a new appreciation for my home and its comforts.

Picture taken by Mack Griffin and put up on his trail journal for March 28th. This is one of the guys in the group I took pictures for atop Cheoah Bald.  Mack's trail journal

Picture above is from ChinMusic's trail journal on March 28.  I met ChinMusic just after passing the GA/NC border. I was debating whether to hike on to Muskrat Shelter or stay at Bly Gap. I stayed and he went on. Read his account of hiking in this - ChinMusic's trail journal 

This is Carlie's account of the bad weather (tail name, Rainbow Braid). We shared a bunk room on March 20th at the NOC.  The next day she passed me and hiked an incredible number of miles that day. Yep, she has her hiker legs now.  Rainbow Braid's Blog

So instead of waiting somewhere in North Carolina for the weather to pass or trying to make it through snow covered trails with high drifts and very cold weather, I've been home rehabbing the ankle and foot, attending mass, and enjoying my home. I am filled with thanks and gratitude.

During the Holy Thursday service, the priests and some of the congregation participate in a foot washing service.  On the night before he died, Jesus dined with his disciples and washed their feet.  John 13:1-7

Little snippets of the foot washing at St. Philip Benizi:





 Easter Sunday mass was beautiful.  This is a song that was sung during the Offertory.



Our oldest son was with us for Easter dinner and we missed the presence of our youngest son who is stationed in Belgium. It's a very warm day here in our part of Georgia; we had some rain and some sun and it is clouding up again.  I wonder what it has been like on the AT ? I hope the snow is melting and the weather is warming and Spring is just around the corner.

Tomorrow I have my 3rd physical therapy appointment for my left ankle and right foot.  The ankle feels great and the foot is better.  

I have a big decision to make tomorrow during my physical therapy appointment.  Do I continue physical therapy and make two more appointments this week for the right foot plantar fasciitis or go back to Stecoah Gap and head North ....

I am praying that somehow I will know what God wants me to do.  


How often when weary do we sigh 
'The spirit is willing, but the body is weak.' 
How often when in prayer our thoughts are distracted by sounds or circumstance or prayers diverted by trivial concerns. 
Baggage carried with us rather than left at your feet. 
How often do we find ourselves apologizing to you for our abbreviated prayer life. 
And yet you draw us still to be in your presence as you did the disciples at Gethsemane 
You want us to share in your life to play our part. 
You told your disciples to watch and pray so that they might not fall into temptation.
Do you ask the same of us and do we also fail you each time we whisper 
'The spirit is willing, but the body is weak.' 
Grant us the strength, Lord, of body and of spirit to offer you the sacrifice of our lives.

March 22 - Locust Cove Gap to Stecoah Gap/NC Hwy. 143

This is Locust Cove Gap at sunrise on March 22nd. I awoke early and started to pack up because I didn't want Phil to have to wait on me to arrive at Hwy. 143. I'm sure I woke up those in the tents close to me because packing up makes a lot of noise. My little Hubba is in the bottom right corner.

My Hubba with all my gear outside. Ready to take down my tent and pack up.

I headed up the trail about 8:15 am; my earliest start yet, I think. It was a quiet and cold morning. See the white blaze.  By the time I was packed, the guys were up. I went over to say goodbye to Hermes and hugged him. I am grateful to have met him (and I can't believe I didn't get a picture of him - darn !). He befriended me on facebook; thus, this pic.

He has a deep spirituality, a kind and loving heart. Hermes (Matt) has beautiful eyes - the kind through which you can see the Spirit of God. He has a gentle and humble spirit and is very thoughtful of others. Even though he has successfully thru-hiked the AT, he is very quiet about it. What a blessing to have met him as well as Carlie and the other young people I encountered on the AT. Even though I was probably the oldest woman they met on the trail, they treated me as just another hiker and I really appreciated that.

In the pic below up ahead you can see a tree over the trail.  Sometimes they were so big that I couldn't step over them. I had to lay down on my stomach, hug the tree, and sort of roll over. This was not one of those trees however.

I was mightily aware that each step during these 3 miles would be my last on this attempted thru-hike. My emotions were everywhere ... up because I was grateful to have had this opportunity; down - because I would not see the journey through to completion and everywhere in between.

More rocks on the trail and you can see a little dusting of snow ...

Some big rocks but I'm getting closer to Hwy. 143

As I neared the highway, I could hear the cars and then I could see them. I knew I would make the 10 AM time to meet Phil.  I thought I heard some one call my name and then I thought I must be hearing things. I looked around and then finally down and there on the trail below me was G-4 !  I turned my head toward the mountain and started to cry. We had parted in Georgia on the trail above Unicoi Gap and here he was to meet me on the trail as I ended my pilgrimage.  How special !  

He left Georgia at 4 AM and drove to North Carolina. He waited in the drive at the Cabin in the Woods until the owner came out and asked what he was doing. When he replied he was here to wait for his wife, Phil asked if her name was Margo. He gave Nick directions to the parking spot on the highway and that's how Nick came to meet me here.

G-4 waits for me

Nick and I hugged and his first words were "I will bring you back here; I know how to get back here." What a shock. I expected him to say he was glad I was coming home and my journey was over.  I was stunned but in that moment it seemed I could hear God's whisper to listen to my husband.  

The steps leading off the trail at Stecoah Gap, NC/Hwy. 143

I posed for my final picture on the Appalachian Trail. I took off my pack (Buddy) and removed my top jacket and put on a big smile ... you know - the kind of smile that's just for show.

Nick turned on the heater in the car and I pressed the button to heat up my seat. It felt good to be sitting in a cushioned seat and warm. Mountains were all around me and I gazed at them through the car windows. I had walked in them. What a gift !  My journey was hard and challenging at times; sometimes cold and desolate; on more than one occasion frightening and dangerous; sunny, beautiful, and fantastic with incredible views. And then - the incredible people I met while hiking the trail  as well as Charlie, the dog. The trail angels who fed me and gave me rides; the hostel owners who provided sanctuary. Thank you for befriending me; you are the greatest gifts !!!

I am also so very grateful for the prayers offered up for me from my family, friends, and those (whom I have never met) who have been reading my trail journal and blog . I could not have made this journey without you. Your prayer support kept me from serious injury and lifted my spirit on really cold and windy days and nights. Your prayer support helped me to make good decisions when I was uncertain and helped me to remain calm when panic seemed imminent. Your prayers helped me to remain close to Jesus and to know that He walked with me every step.

The last two days this song kept running through my mind:

March 21 - NOC to Locust Cove Gap

See the white blaze on the sign post; this was the way up from the NOC.  It was a sunny morning but COLD again.  When will Spring arrive? Everyone is wondering ...

I left before Carlie and Hermes but it wasn't long before they passed me. I'm used to it by now and very grateful that I can keep moving forward. The young people are not immune to problems.  Their knees and feet hurt. A lot of them have multiple blisters; some have lost toe nails. Carlie is experiencing problems with an achilles tendon.

Me and my shadow

I knew it would be a long and hard day. The sun was out and that really lifts my spirit. It wasn't long before I noticed a little snow on the embankment but it wasn't on the trail. I thought it looked pretty. The trail was frozen and crunchy and rocky at times. The climb up from the NOC goes up for almosst 6 miles to Swim Bald with a nice view from the Jump-Up (at about the 5 mile mark) of Nantahala Gorge (where I'd spent last night). It amazed me to think that I had walked up from down there !

View of the NOC/Nantahala Gorge from the Jump-up

On the shady side of the mountain this is was the trail. I stopped at Sassafras Gap Shelter but it was too early to stay so I proceeded on toward Locust Cove Gap (my original destination for the day).

There was a stretch of trail where I had been walking and then the trail seemed to end. I stopped and looked for white blazes on the trees but it was just a jumble of rocks. I wasn't sure if I went straight ahead to the right or left. I just stood there sort of frozen in place. Another frightening moment for me.  By now you know what I did - yes, prayed that God would show me a shoe/boot print. I walked a little to the left and up and saw a partial print in the snow on a rock and proceeded in that direction. As I climbed up the rocky path, I saw more prints so I knew someone had gone this way ahead of me and I hoped it was the correct direction.

I had seen this earlier and wondered if I was following Guard's foot prints.

Higher up I could hear girls' voices and when I could see them I asked if I was heading the right direction. They replied they were going South so I breathed a sigh of relief that I was heading North. I asked if the trail remained covered with snow and they said, yes ...

This was a nice flat stretch (albeit short). Can you imagine how beautiful it would be to walk through these rhododendrums when they are in bloom !  Not today though.

When I arrived at Cheoah Bald the view was incredible and I had it all to myself for a few minutes. My narrative consists of a very tired "This is Cheoah Bald."



It was so cold I see my breath but the sun was out and that helped me mentally a little. Four guys arrived huffing and puffing. They had passed me earlier in the day and then took a lunch break at Sassafras Gap Shelter. Because I didn't take a break there, I managed to make it to Cheoah Bald ahead of them ... but just by a few minutes. That gives you an idea of the speed of younger people.  I hike slow but steady and don't take long breaks. They hike fast but take long breaks and still out hike me.  

I had taken off my pack and decided that Cheoah Bald was my Katahdin.  I got one bar on my cell phone and tried to call G-4. Call failed. I moved a few feet and got two bars and the call went through. I told him "I'm done."  His reply:  "What?" and I repeated "I'm done." I had found The Cabin in the Woods from the guide book and made the call to Phil. He said he could pick me up the next morning at Hwy. 143/Stecoah Gap but that night he was full with hikers coming in out of the cold weather. I told him I couldn't hike those extra miles to the highway that night any way and would stay at Locust Cove Gap. Arranged for a 10 AM pickup the next morning and hoped I could do those 3.1 miles in that time frame with fresh legs ! Called G-4 back and asked him to meet me sometime the next day at the Cabin in the Woods. He would google it and find the directions. Didn't figure I would have cell coverage in the gap that night and I didn't.

Took some group shots of the guys with their phones and cameras but was too tired to asked their names or chat with them. One guy overhead my conversation and came over to me and said "Don't be too hard on yourself.  Look what you have accomplished. I have a friend who is much younger who could not have done what you just did."  I told him I wasn't being hard on myself but I was just really tired and couldn't see myself doing this for 6 more months.  I think the cold weather had really beaten me down. I pulled out my high protein pretzels and a packet of squeeze cheese and ate it. I think part of the reason I was so down was due to the fact I hadn't eaten much all day. Not a good way to fuel for a hike.

The guys talked about heading to Brown Fork Gap Shelter for the night - another 7.9 miles. I think it was about 4 PM. I knew 2.4 miles to Locust Gove Gap would probably be more than I was capable of but that was my only option and I had to do it. It was going to be another cold night and I didn't think staying atop Cheoah Bald was a good option. Onward ...

I had gone UP almost all day and now came the DOWN - 2.4 miles of down and I went down (literally) doing the splits soon after leaving Cheoah Bald.  Of course, it was on rocks. My left foot turned and I felt the pain that comes with a twisted ankle. Then my left leg slipped forward out in front of me and I felt a pull in my left quadricep muscle at about the same time my right leg splayed out behind me. I think my pack (Buddy) saved my butt from a hard down on the rocks.  I don't even recall how I got up but I remember I didn't take off my pack ...  Yep, I said a prayer of thanksgiving that no one would have to come rescue me off the mountain.  I didn't expect there was any one behind me and there wasn't so I don't know how I would have been rescued anyway. Hermes knew I was headed for Locust Cove Gap and perhaps he would have come to look for me. Thankfully, I made it slowly down to Locust Cove Gap and arrived about 6 PM.

The young guys were there and had their hammock and tents set up and one was coming back up from the water source. They decided to call it a day because they were tired too.

I set up my tent for the "last time on the AT." I cooked dinner, tried to give away my food because I didn't want to carry it down off the mountain. My candy bars were a hit but that was about it.  Hermes asked me if I was OK with leaving the trail. He wondered if I thought God was telling me I had gone far enough. At that time I thought I had accomplished what God had called me to (even though I wasn't sure what that was...) and told him I was at peace with my decision. He had given me a very tiny uncut emerald and a tiny purple stone while we were at the NOC because he noticed I wore green and purple and he wanted to give me something to carry with me to Katahdin. He told me his grandma had given him several uncut stones that she had won and he'd carried them to Katahdin on his first thru-hike last year. I was very touched with his gift but on this night I told him I would return them because I wouldn't make it to Katahdin. He didn't want to take them back but I said he would meet someone else and he'd know who that person was and he should give them to that person. I tried to remain upbeat because I didn't want to ruin the day for the others. I declined the offer to sit by the camp fire and retired to my tent for my last cold night in the wilderness. I had a good nights sleep.  The tent site was really rocky but my Exped 7 mattress came through like a champ and I was very comfortable.  

March 20 - A. Rufus Morgan to NOC (bunk house)

When I awoke this morning, I knew it was a short day. I had just one mile to do and I would arrive at the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center). So I took my time and packed up. I was the last to leave the shelter area and I wished everyone a good day as they passed by my tent site !

The AWOL guide noted multiple streams and footbridges ... but there was one place which was really frightening to me.  Water was running down a very steep rock cliff like area and there didn't seem to be an easy step in any direction forward because of the incline. I just stood there and stared at it for awhile and was thankful there was no one behind me wondering why I had come to a dead stop.  As usual, I said a prayer asking the Lord to guide my steps and proceeded forward. A footbridge would have been nice here. Maybe I missed seeing some hand holds or something ... it was really slippery.

Soon I could hear the traffic from the highway and shortly afterward I got my first view of the NOC.

I went into the outfitter store and asked about rooms. They gave me directions over the bridge and up the hill to the stone building.

I went into the River's End Restaurant eagerly anticipating a great breakfast.  I was seated at a table next to those who had spent the night at A. Rufus Morgan Shelter and they invited me to join them. I really appreciated the courtesy because I've never enjoyed dining alone.

 Across the table from me was Johnny Cash and next to him was Bean and Vice (they didn't come out of their sleeping bags at the shelter the night before) and it was nice to meet them. At the end near the window is Broken Pack (he received his trail name because his first two L.L. Bean packs broke due to an inherent flaw). Just Dan is next to him. We all ENJOYED IMMENSELY our food. It was such a leisurely breakfast because we had no where to be ... just relaxing for the rest of the day and enjoying the beautiful weather.  We watched a group of people learn about kayaking. They practiced throwing ropes for quite some time.  The water was so COLD; I guess they were wearing wet suits.

After breakfast, I table hopped and joined Hermes, Movie Star and Carlie (possibly Rainbow Braid) as they had breakfast. We've been traveling from place to place at around the same speed OR at least I would finally arrive after they have been there awhile.  Movie Star was going to hike out and continue on to Fontana Dam but Hermes and Carlie were spending the night at the NOC.  Carlie and I got a bunk room together. She recently graduated from college and lives in Kennesaw, GA - about an hour North of where I live.  Carlie had waist length hair before the start of her hike and cut it all off in a cute pixie style except for one long (almost waist length narrow) strip which she braided. She has a rainbow striped hat and so we tossed around possible trail names -- Rainbow Tail or Rainbow Braid.  

I went to the outfitter and bought new trail runners.  The Salomon Synapse had been comfortable until getting crusted with mud and hardened. Then the left one began to crease and hit my left big toe just below the nail and I developed a sore blister there. I hiked in my Teva Hurricane XLT sandals for the past two days which worked out fine. I chose Brooks Cascadia 8 trail runners but the color is really loud -- turquoise and salmon. They are comfortable though and I hope they work out well for me. Time will tell.

Spent the day talking with Hermes and Carlie and sitting in the sun. Soaked my right foot (plantar fascia) in the ice cold river. 




Had dinner with Carlie and Hermes at the same restaurant; really enjoyed a great hamburger, fries and a beer. Guard (from North Carolina) wandered into the restaurant and Carlie asked if he wanted to join us for dinner. I had met his buddy Freight Train enroute to Albert Mt. He said Guard was ahead of him but had "blown out his knee" but Hermes had loaned him a knee brace and they were getting off the trail at the next forest service road. I was surprised to see Guard. He was back on the trail after getting some anti-inflamatory meds but Freight Train had stayed behind.  The restaurant closes early - 7 PM and I retired to the bunk room for the night.  Forecast was for a very cold night (again) in the teens but our room was very warm and it was difficult for me to sleep. I couldn't turn off the heat. I'm not complaining; it just seemed weird that we were out of the cold but then it was too hot in the room for me to sleep.

March 19 - Burningtown Gap to A. Rufus Morgan Shelter

Had a cup of hot chocolate mixed with a little taste of Starbucks Via coffee and a Balance lemon meringue protein bar for breakfast from my hiker food bag at the Aquone Hostel. Took my box to mail home down to Maggie and they took my picture to put on their thru-hiker wall.  Thanked Maggie for everything and gave her a hug. I hope one day to bring G-4 back here for a weekend at one of their cabins and to hike with him along this stretch of the trail. Steve drove me back to Burningtown Gap and I thanked him for the super hospitality.

Decided to let the "mountain embrace me" -- kind of backwards from what Steve had suggested but decided my arms were not long enough to embrace the mountain. It was a beautiful sunny day; quite a contrast to yesterday.

After walking about 3 miles, I saw a side trail (0.1 East to a view) and decided to take it.  It was a little up hill but easily doable.

I was rewarded with this view from Rocky Bald. I spent about 30 minutes here just letting the mountain embrace me. Spent a little time in prayer giving thanks for this beautiful day and the ability to walk in God's creation.



About two miles later I reached Tellico Gap. The beauty is somewhat marred by huge power lines but I decided to sit on the steps which lead up from the gap and take time for lunch. This was the first time I actually stopped and had a decent lunch break on the trail. I was by myself for a time and then Just Dan walked up followed in just a short time by Kyle. They sat down too and we enjoyed talking. Just Dan had left his newly purchased block of cheese in the motel refrigerator at Franklin.  I told him I had written myself a note both in Franklin and at the Aquone Hostel and placed it on my food bag so that I would remember to get my block of cheese out of the refrigerators. I knew I couldn't eat all of the cheese so I cut off a hunk for Just Dan and Kyle. Just Dan shared three mini peanut butter cups with me. I had a turkey jerky sandwich with mayo on a sandwich thin.  It was quite tasty along with my extra sharp cheddar which I ate on the side.

As I finished lunch Nails and husband, Dirtdog came up. We talked a couple of minutes and it was time for me to head UP again. It was a short up though ...777 feet in 1.4 miles. Still I was huffing ! What a reward though on this clear day - Wesser Bald observation tower. Kyle took this pic of me.  Thanks Kyle !

I met Dump Truck, Clever Girl and Apollo (most recently from NYC, they said). I had seen Clever Girl arrive at Fresh Grounds trail magic a few days ago but I was heading out as they were coming in. It was nice to meet them and talk a little.

This is Just Dan. We had lunch together below; he left Tellico Gap after me but soon passed me and arrived at the tower ahead of me.
 

Had the view all to myself for a few minutes and then Kyle climbed up. You will hear his first response ..



My reference to feeling like the Appalachian Trail was "my home"  takes me back to an earlier blog entry before I began the journey. I posted Philip Phillips song, Home and noted that I felt it was a promise from God that He would make the AT my home for the length of the journey.  Today, I realized for the first time that I felt at home on the trail.  What a gift this day was for me. Thank you, Lord.

Everyone left and I stayed here a while enjoying the quiet and the beauty. I thought I might see Nails and Dirtdog but they must have taken quite a lunch break. I walked on ...

Originally I thought I might stop at Wesser Bald Shelter for the night which would have made for a 7 mile day. It was about 3:00 pm when I walked by it. I could see one food bag hanging from the bear cables; I paused and thought about walking down to the shelter but decided to move on.

My first flower; the trail was narrow and I couldn't move to get it out of my shadow

 After walking about 2 more miles, this was my view.  I wondered if somehow I had gotten off the trail ... but soon realized this must be the Jumpoff (noted in my guide) but I didn't know what that meant. 

I walked up and at the top of the pic where it looks like just sky -- it was !  There was a steep down to a point on a rock and the trail ended.  The trail made  hard right hand turn down some very steep rocks and I couldn't believe that was where I needed to go.  But first I made a video of this unique spot. It was very windy at this place. You can see down to the Nantahala River valley and in the distance are the Smokey Mountains ... onward !



I made it down to the flat part of the trail by sitting down and scooting down on my bottom. My legs weren't long enough to make the steps down. I think it was about 4 PM and I continued North. As 5 PM approached I began to look for a site to set up my little Hubba for the night. I thought perhaps this would be the first night on the trail where I would be by myself all night and face one of my fears.  It had been a very special day and I was open to the idea. I was also getting tired and wasn't sure if I could complete an 11.9 mile day.

After the Jumpoff there was a stretch of really tough rocks with some big downs on rocks and I was wishing I had stayed at Wesser Bald Shelter and waited for fresh legs to do this part of the trail but there was no going back at this point. 

Finally I came upon a place I could set up my tent and I noticed there was a tarp and another tent set up. As I walked in, I could see a shelter and privy.  I had arrived at A. Rufus Morgan Shelter.  It was about 6 PM.  I was relieved to be there.  Just Dan had set up a hammock under the tarp and he said - WOW -- you had quite a day. I think that was his way of complimenting me in my advanced years. Kyle was in the process of setting up his tent.


I set up my tent not far from the tree where my trekking poles rest, got water, and went up to the shelter to cook dinner.

That's Johnny Cash (Lucas from NYC, 18 yrs. of age) reading. Broken Pack is in the blue sleeping bag and he raised his head up ocasionaly to talk.  I didn't hear anything from the other two sleeping bags. The next day I learned Bean and Vice were in those bags. I cooked my dinner and went to my tent.

About 9 PM a fighter jet flew over.  What a sound !  I thought it sounded like it might crash into the woods. G-4 later told me that it was a certain maneuver they do at night. It seemed so odd to be in the wilderness and to suddenly hear that sound.  I had a great nights' sleep; didn't even wear my ear plugs. I'm growing accustomed to the sounds of the night ....

March 17 and March 18 - Winding Stair Gap to Aquone Hostel and environs

Ron Haven drove the shuttle from Franklin back to Winding Stair Gap.  We stopped at the Sapphire Inn (another of his motels) and more people got on.  I had a seat empty next to me and Escargot sat down. It was good to see her again and we talked. I think she and Snowman planned to spend the night at Wayah Bald Shelter (about an 11 mile day) but G-4 told me bad weather was approaching and so I decided to make a short day of it and spend the night at Aquone Hostel which was opened recently by former thru-hiker, Wiggy  2010 and his wife, Maggie. 

Everyone piled out of the shuttle and headed UP - 3,808 feet to 5,014 at Siler Bald Summit.
It was a beautiful morning. I was last to begin the trail.  Dixie Grits had stayed behind at the Sapphire Inn to do some investment business. Snowman gave me his phone number and I called to tell him about Aquone Hostel thinking perhaps it would be a way for him to move forward and still be able to work.


Stopped to capture this beautiful waterfall and continued on. 



Then I came to this little stream crossing and proceeded to slip ... as usual I had an audience but I didn't realize it until after I got back up.



I am definitely overworking my guardian angel !  I met Nails and Dirtdog (married couple) along the way. They were hiking South to North to spend another night in Franklin. Had a nice conversation with them.  Nails thru-hiked many years ago and she is back this year with her husband. She had such a big smile on her face when she realized I was attempting a thru-hike as a solo woman. She told me she likes to encourage women to hike because it was such an empowering experience for her. They told me wonderful trail magic was ahead and not to eat lunch.  I had gone to McD's for breakfast and purchased an extra egg and cheese mcmuffin which I brought along for my lunch. So I decided to wait for the trail magic.

Just before Siler Bald summit (below) some guys passed me -- not unusual (the passing me).  They stopped at this beautiful spot. I kept looking around and they pointed the direction of the trail.  I said I was looking for the stone tower ... they told me that would be 4 miles up the trail (which would be tomorrow for me) at Wayah Bald stone tower.  That's a different bald ... well at least I was standing on a bald at the time. I referred to my little map and noted my location. They headed out ahead of me - that way they wouldn't have to pass me again.

This was a little rickety and bounced as I walked across.  I guess maybe if there had been more rain, this would be a little creek. Detour walked with a little ways and I enjoyed his company and conversation for a little while before he stepped up his face and literally flew down the trail. The pace and agility of younger people is amazing. He is from NYC too and a devout Jew. He and Donny met one another just before beginning the trail but had not known one another before hiking together. He said he would see me at the trail magic. As an aside - Detour received his trail name because back at Neels Gap in Georgia he took a side trail for a view and then decided to follow the side trail because he thought it would take him back to the Appalachian Trail.  He spent an entire day walking around Neels Gap and never moved North. I think one other time he did something similar and that's why he received his trail name.

 As I approached Wayah Gap, I could hear voices and then I saw this sign pointing to Wayah Creek Picnic area. This was the trail magic Nails told me not to miss. So I walked down the little side trail.  Meet Fresh Grounds !


I took off my pack (sweet relief) and took a seat at the picnic table -- the bench was padded which was a surprise and very much appreciated. The guys at the table were the ones I talked with at Siler Bald summit. Fresh Grounds loves hikers and it shows in so many ways. Before I knew it, I was holding a hot dog and then he gave me a cup of chicken rice soup. I had a delicious cup of coffee and a banana and then he handed me another hot dog and I ate it too !  Fresh Grounds was a hiker but now he believes God has called him to the ministry of feeding hikers. So he works (as an electrician, I think) and takes time off during the thru-hiker season to travel and cook for hikers. He uses his own money and doesn't ask for a donation but there is a cup if you'd like to give a little donation. He uses the money to buy more food to feed hikers. He told us he would see us again on the northern side of the Smokeys at Davenport Gap.  He'll probably be gone before I arrive because I've had to take time off but what a blessing to meet Fresh Grounds and to experience his ministry. "For I was hungry and you gave me food, I was thirsty and you gave me drink, I was a stranger and you welcomed me." Matt. 25:35

The story of Fresh Ground taken from the Patriot's trail journal -- "I happened upon Fresh Ground, the Trail Angel who has been following us with hot dogs, fresh fruit and assorted goodies since GA. He made me an unbelievable breakfast of bacon, eggs and banana pancakes and told me that although he had originally planned to spend 6 weeks with us before heading home, he has decided to hang in there with us thru-hikers all the way to Maine. I asked Fresh Ground what it was that motivated him to do this for us. It was just the two of us and this is what he told me. After a lot of trauma and challenges in his life he found Jesus and was born again. His faith has brought him to Mexico and Africa doing mission work in some of the most impoverished places on earth. He had actually planned on hiking the AT himself this year but he told me the Good Lord had different plans. He kept getting signs that what he was meant to do was give support to the thru-hikers to ensure they achieve their goals by providing food and moral support. He started with $3000 of his own money to fund his trail magic venture and figured that it would last him about 6 weeks. An electrician by trade, Fresh Ground was able to get the time off and began his trail magic road show about the same time I began my hike in early March. In all this time, Fresh Ground has never asked for a dime but then the amazing started happening. People were so blown away by his unselfish love and generosity, that unsolicited donations began to pour in and other people, inspired by Fresh Ground began performing their own Trail Magic. Fresh Ground saw the additional funds as a sign that his mission was not done so he called his boss and requested an additional 5 months off. Fresh Ground must be as good an employee as he is a person because his boss told him his job is waiting we he is ready to come back."

It was just .1 mile back on the trail to Wayah Rd. and I called the Aquone Hostel.  Maggie came to pick me up in about 15 minutes.  What a neat lady.  As she drove the winding roads to the hostel, she told me how they came to live in North Carolina and build the Aquone Hostel and cabins. They are originally from England (nice to hear that accent again and to experience the extreme politeness of the English). After her husband thru-hiked, he knew he wanted to live in the mountains and so they looked for property. Their home is now the down stairs part of this hostel.  It's a beautiful place and was quite a respite for me during a day and night of bad weather. Below  is the living room of the hostel and the  next picture shows the kitchen area. I had a room with two single beds but I was the only woman that night so I had the room to myself.  I met Tekawitha, a thru-hiker from Canada, who signs the shelter registers "hiking home to Canada."  I think he told me he was a former Canadian military pilot and I told him my husband had been an Army pilot. I had first seen him in Franklin at the Budget Inn and I didn't expect to see him down the trail because I expected he would be a fast hiker. He's Catholic and we talked a little about the new Pope and watched a little television. Maggie is a great cook and we enjoyed a dinner of turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, dressing and mixed vegetables.  We had raspberry pie for dessert. Tekawitha had his with ice cream.  I was too stuffed and passed on the ice cream. 

 Tekawitha hiked out the next morning but I stayed because it was supposed to start raining early afternoon. Wiggy took me back to Wayah Rd. and I began a day hike. At first I thought I might do the 13 miles to Tellico Gap and he would come pick me up and take me back to the hostel for another night. 

 

Most of the day looked like this along the trail.  It was wet and cloudy. Below is a big tree that had fallen across the trail (pic taken after I made it around the tree).  I couldn't see where the trail began after this but I had to get around it. I looked up and decided it was too steep to go around that way. I looked down and surveyed the situation and decided that was my best bet. I grabbed on to some of the limbs and carefully made my way around as I navigated the slope down hill and made my way back up.  I could see the trail again once I made it around this enormous tree that had fallen across the trail.  WHEW !

 The John B. Byrne Memorial Tower at Wayah Bald after walking about 4 miles. Never saw another person along the way.

The stone tower is beautiful on a sunny day (from other hikers' pictures I have seen) and I think there is a nice view too.  This was my view; I didn't climb to the top because I would have just been more in the clouds.  I met and talked with a young couple who had driven up to the tower. The AT continues North on the back side of the tower and I walked on after making a short call to G-4 to give him my location.

Wayah Bald stone tower and paved foot path

I saw just one hiker this day and he was coming South. It was shortly after a little rain shower and he was wearing a purple rain poncho which was blowing in the wind. I used my trekking umbrella for the first time on the AT.  It worked well to keep me dry and I think it will be useful in the future.

Decided to stop at Burningtown Gap (8.7 miles for the day) and called Maggie. She said Steve would be there shortly to pick me up. It was beginning to rain again and it seemed like the temperature was dropping. Burningtown Gap/NC 1397 is just a short ways from the Aquone Hostel. Again, had a nice conversation with Steve during the ride. I thought a lot about what he had told me as I got out to hike that day ... "Embrace the mountain!" 

Decided to eat some of my hiker food for dinner as I was carrying too much food so I declined the offer of dinner cooked by Maggie. I know it would have been a great meal though. Meat loaf was on the menu; my husband's favorite dinner. I had the hostel all to myself this night. Took a shower and blow dried my hair for the second day in a row. Packed up a small box to send home in order to lighten my pack and planned the next few days of hiking. Used the computer at the hostel to catch up on my journal and watched through the windows as it began to hail heavily (almost marble size hail), thunder and lightening.  This was the weather G-4 wanted me to avoid and I was certainly happy to be at this beautiful hostel rather than in my tent or in a shelter on the AT.  I prayed for those who were out there braving this storm.  A few days later I heard some of the stories from that night.  Good call from my Logistics and Support, G-4 !  Thank you. Had a great nights' sleep.

March 15 and March 16 - Long Branch Shelter to Winding Stair Gap and Franklin, NC

Woke up early and decided to begin packing up. Since my tent was down lower and away from the shelter and other tents, I knew it would not disturb anyone. Even though I don't have much to pack up, it still takes time.  I'm working on speeding up the process but I have quite a ways to go to get it under an hour !  The shelter had a privy and that makes the morning a little nicer.

Noticed that Woodman was packing up too and decided to see if I could pack up and hike out with him.  Dreamer and Socks have a nice routine in the morning. With two people packing up, they seem to have more leisure time. I noticed that they even have time for a warm cup of something and breakfast before they hike out.  I usually just put a protein bar in my pocket and eat it after I begin hiking; that's my breakfast.  I drink water along with it ... yummy !

I try to pay attention when turning into a shelter area for the night in order to determine what direction the trail leads for the next morning. I wear a rubber Army bracelet and when I remember, I transfer it the left wrist if I have turned left onto the shelter trail. So, then the next morning, I know to turn left to head North for the day.  

However, this shelter trail seemed different.  I was behind Woodman and he hiked straight ahead up the trail. I remember Dreamer said we had two downs and an up for the day so I asked Woodman if he was sure that was the correct direction because it seemed the trail immediately headed up.  He got out his compass and then said he wasn't sure and my question had caused him to doubt. He hiked back down to the shelter area and asked and was told we needed to turn left. When he came back, he thanked me and said he probably would have hiked awhile before realizing he was going the wrong way.  If we had just turned left to see what the other direction looked like, we would have known immediately that we were headed the correct way because the trail was a stream and we had not walked in a stream as we entered the trail down to Long Branch Shelter. Woodman stated that perhaps North Carolina should consider rerouting the AT so that it did not travel down a stream bed !  He's from Tennessee.  Our day began with wet feet. 

Woodman as we approach Winding Stair Gap

Close the highway now where we hope to get a ride into Franklin

I first met Woodman at the Blueberry Patch Hostel. He's retired and loves living in the mountains of Tennessee.  As we came down to the highway after hiking 7.3 miles (a short day), we weren't sure which direction to head as we sought to hitch hike into Franklin. We called for the shuttle at the Budget Inn but the woman at the desk said he was picking up people at Rock Gap. We didn't know that was a shuttle point and we had hiked on for 3.7 miles to Winding Stair Gap. But that was OK because it was a nice day and we'd start at that point to head North when we went back to the trail. We saw two young women crossing the highway and coming up to their car so we asked them which direction to head to hitch hike into Franklin. They pointed the way and then offered us a ride to Franklin. Anna and Carmelita had come from Georgia to hike with friends for the day day. Their friends were thru-hikers. They had spent time in Franklin with their thru-hiker friends and were familiar with the Budget Inn. They gave us bananas to eat and we got in Anna's beautiful SUV (with our dirty shoes) and enjoyed sitting in a padded seat with a back to it.  Enjoyed a great conversation as we traveled the miles to Franklin (probably a 20-30 min. ride) - didn't expect it to be that far away.  I neglected to snap of picture of them but a BIG THANKS to Anna and Carmelita for the ride to Franklin. 

Woodman had a reservation at the Budget Inn but I did not. I asked if there was a room for me and she said yes. I had mailed a small box of food to be held at the Budget Inn and she had it for me. The original pick up was to be in February but they held it for me until I arrived in March.  Nice.  I went to my room and took a shower and put on clean clothes and then I did my laundry.  I ordered pizza and a salad from Vito's to be delivered and thoroughly enjoyed it when it arrived. After the shower, I moved from the smoking room to a no smoking room

Everything out of my pack and my food box on the little table - reorganization time !

and that was a relief for the nose but not so much from the noise of the highway. Still, it was great to have a room to myself and the bed was great !  I even had a little microwave and a small refrigerator. What a change from the quiet of the woods ...



 Took the late afternoon shuttle around Franklin and went to the outfitters. Purchased a compression sack for my sleeping gear. The original compression sack was heavier and I hoped to lighten my load a little. Went to a big Walmart and bought a block of Cabot Extra Sharp Cheddar to take with me on the trail and a bottle of Gatorade to drink in my room ... I think my body was craving electrolytes and it sure tasted good. A little snippet of Ron Haven as he drives the shuttle to take hikers around town for errands.



.

Front to back - Dreamer and Socks, Me and Woodman and Silver Fox

Woodman was in the seniors' group that had dinner in Franklin at Logan's Roadhouse (I think that was the name of the restaurant); it was really close to the Budget Inn Motel.  He was hungry for a good burger and he ordered a dinner that included two huge hamburgers. They may have been over 1 lb. each and he ate every bite.  Then he ordered a milkshake for dessert !  I enjoyed an 8 oz. filet and huge baked potato slathered in butter and a roll; no room for dessert (my hiker appetite has not kicked in yet). I think Silver Fox had a steak. Dreamer and Socks had a huge steak (22 oz.), I think, and a huge burger on a combo dinner and a salad. Charlie had a nice dinner when they got back to the Budget Inn from left overs.  They had dessert too. It was a relaxing and fun dinner.  Writing this after the fact, it seems that may have been our first and last dinner together on the AT.  Woodman only spent one night at the Budget Inn and took the shuttle back to the trail a day ahead of me. It was a beautiful day to hike and I expect he made good time to whatever spot he chose for the night. The rest us spent a zero day in Franklin. The next morning Silver Fox and I walked to what we thought was a restaurant open for breakfast but it was closed. I went back to my room and ate left over pizza and Gatorade; he walked on to McDonald's.  Silver Fox and I were on the same packed shuttle to Winding Stair Gap and I don't know where he is now.  Dreamer, Socks, and Charlie stayed behind at the Budget Inn in Franklin because she was having knee issues. They remained there almost one week, I think, but are back on the trail as I type this today (3/29/13) and I wish them well. I don't know if I will see any of them again but if not, I enjoyed meeting them and their company for the few days we spent together on the trail.

Saturday, March 16, was just a lazy/restful zero day at the Budget Inn.  It was a beautiful day weather wise - so warm and sunny and part of me regretted not returning to the trail to take advantage of this beautiful weather.  However, I wanted to attend Saturday night mass at St. Francis of Assisi Catholic Church and that pull was greater than the trail.  I asked the late afternoon shuttle driver to verify directions I had been given to walk to the church and he said "hop in, I'll take you there, eroute to dropping off the other hikers who were headed to the grocery and outfitter.  It probably would have been about a 1 mile walk to church which would have been easy considering there was a sidewalk and no Buddy on my back but I was grateful for the ride:




St. Francis of Assisi is a beautiful little church.  The sun was streaming down as I approached the drive way to walk up the little hill to the front door.

Of course, I had to take a pic of St. Francis near the front entry. We are blessed to have Franciscan Friars at St. Philip Benizi Church in Jonesboro, GA.  And our new Pope chose the name of Francis.
Father Tien Duong

Fr. Tien Duong is the Pastor. I chose a seat a few rows from the front on the right side and knelt down to give thanks that God had allowed me to get to Franklin in time for mass. Fr. Tien gave thanks for our new Pope who chose the name Francis and offered these words: " We have a new Pope: Francis! Let us join the voice of all the faithful Catholics around the world to say thanks to our Good and Eternal Shepherd Jesus Christ who never abandons His Church. Let us also embrace our new Pope Francis—the Vicar of Christ on earth, love him and express our obedience to him."

After receiving communion, tears started to roll down my face. I thought about all the Masses we have attended all over the world (because of G-4's military service) BUT this church was special. I had WALKED to it from another state. I walked through Georgia on the Appalachian Trail into North Carolina ... what a blessing to have the health and strength; what a blessing to receive Jesus in the Eucharist with the family of St. Francis of Assisi. The woman next to me patted my back when she noticed I was wiping away the silent tears. I leaned over and whispered that I had walked the trail from Georgia to North Carolina and was so happy to be here at this Mass.

After mass I had a little conversation with the woman next to me at Mass. We walked out to the parking lot and I asked for her prayers. I also asked if the street in front would take me to Ingles because that's where I would turn to go back to the motel. I started walking; they pulled up and offered me a ride and brought me back. They also offered to take me to the restaurant for the seniors were having dinner but I was not sure of the restaurant name. My sore foot was spared the extra miles. Thank you to Connie & Tim Blackburn for the ride back to the Budget Inn. They promised to pray for me too and I am most grateful for all those who pray for me. 

Now for dinner... While I was in the parking lot of the Budget Inn, Donny, a young man from NYC who I first met at the Blueberry Patch Hostel came out of his room and I asked if he would like to join me for dinner at McDonald's. He said he'd walk with me but had food in his room to eat. Donny is one of eight children (I hope I got that fact correct) from a devout Jewish family. I told him devout Catholic families often times had large families. He talked about his family traditions and worship and I shared some of my story.  We had originally talked about faith at the Blueberry Patch Hostel. He asked me lots of questions and I prayed that God would give me words to answer Donny's questions.  Donny told me he is walking the Appalachian Trail to experience new things .... so I'm praying that God will reveal to Donny all the new things He desires for him. "See, I am doing a new thing! Now it springs up; do you not perceive it? I am making a way in the wilderness and streams in the wasteland." Isaiah 43:19

Donny at Blueberry Patch Hostel

Donny is a young man and a good hiker. I expect he's quite a ways ahead of me now but if God desires it, we'll meet again somewhere down the trail. His parents should be very proud of him; he's a wonderful young man.